Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Around The World: Studying Sauna in Helsinki

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Wednesday February 3, 2010

Around The World: Studying Sauna in Helsinki

Jennifer Merin

We sit in an old-fashioned wood-heated sauna at the Finnish Sauna Society on Lauttasaari Island near Helsinki. The Finnish Sauna Society's traditional bathing facilities, extensive library and broad membership make this the ideal place to be initiated into Finland's marvelous and distinctive sauna culture.

When it comes to unwinding after a long and arduous day's work, most other Europeans -- or, for that matter, people from all corners of the globe -- might stop off for a drink on their way home, or pour one for themselves when they get inside the front door. Most Finns, on the other hand, head for the sauna.

Statistics show that Finland has about 5-million saunas for it's 1.5-million people. And, that means that Finland actually has more saunas than automobiles.

In fact, in Finland, it's requisite for all hotels to have saunas. They're also commonplace in office buildings, factories and other work places. And, most private homes have saunas, too.

At the Finnish Sauna Society, we are taking the heat in a wood-paneled sauna big enough for 12 people.

Outside, the power-like snow that's falling so gently, is blanketing the grounds. But inside the cocoon-like sauna, bathes in its dim reddish glow, we're very toasty. The pleasant fragrance of birch permeates the air, but it's actually so hot we can barely inhale its soothing scent. Sweat runs in rivulets down our limbs, making our skin glisten in the dim light.

It's impossible not to relax, and lose oneself in thought. The only thing that's happening is the heat and the sweat, and the occasional hiss of cool water being poured over red-hot stones or the rhythmic sounds of birch whisks being slapped on naked backs and limbs. The former ups the temperature and adds steam to the sauna. The latter is a ritual meant to enhance the sauna's beautifying effects on the skin.

Now and again, we push through the sauna's heavy door, sprint across the wide, snow-clad lawn and over a small weather-worn dock that juts into the Baltic Sea. At the end of the dock, we plunge into the icy waters for an invigorating -- albeit brief -- swim. We emerge all goose-fleshed, towel off, and dash right back into the sauna.

We will spend a leisurely afternoon sitting in the sauna, swimming and showering, relaxing in the day room with a good book, gazing at the countryside or snacking on Finnish treats from the cafeteria.

This is a ritual that most Finns repeat to some extent at lease every other day -- albeit not at the Sauna Society facilities -- to maintain good health and peace of mind.

The alternating between exposure to hot and cold is meant to relax muscles, stimulate circulation and provide mental and physical health. According to many Finns, sauna is a spiritual experience. And, it's difficult to disagree with their assessment.

Since ancient times, Finns have used saunas to bathe and relax after hard work and to prepare for weddings, religious holidays and other celebrations of all sorts. Archeologists have found primitive saunas -- built in covered dug-outs -- in the oldest Finnish settlements discovered to date.

Even the 'Kalevala,' the 23,000-verse epic that stands as the official record of Finland's folklore, mythology and traditional lifestyle, has rich references to sauna. 'Come now, God, into the sauna, to the warmth, heavenly Father, healthfulness to bring us, and the peace secure to us,' reads one passage.

The Finnish Sauna Society might just be considered to be the world headquarters for sauna. It has 3,500 members.

The Finnish Sauna Society was founded in 1937,with the specific intention of fostering foster the heritage of Finland's culture and its national bath. The society is housed in a charming white wooden frame house on the scenic shore of the Baltic Sea. There are five wood-heated saunas and one modern electric sauna on the premises. Three of the wood-heated saunas are smoke saunas -- or 'savosaunas' -- the most traditional type, in which smoke from the wood fire is allowed to accumulate inside the room, creating a distinctive sauna smell, and depositing an uneven patina on the walls.

In addition to the all important saunas, the Sauna Society's building features a thoroughly charming sitting room that has large picture windows that overlook the (now) snow-clad grounds and gardens, and the sea beyond them. With its welcoming collection of comfortable wicker armchairs and pine loungers, the sitting room is an ideal place -- everyone who frequents the Sauna Society has a favorite spot -- to curl up for a read or a daydream after a round of sauna and swim.

For those who don't enjoy that very energetic and invigorating dash-and-dunk routine, the bathroom itself has showers for intermittent cooling off -- it's a necessary part of the routine -- between sweats.

If you're in the mood for some additional pampering, an attendant awaits to give you a stimulating scrub you from head to toe with a loofa or to provide you with a tenderizing a mini-massage.

Sauna Society members and non-members alike make telephone reservations at least a day in advance for their day at the sauna. The day's use of the facility, including unlimited access to the various saunas and showers, sitting room and cafeteria, costs members 8 Euros. It's 14 Euros for non-members, but you must be the 'guest' of a member to get in.

In keeping with Finnish sauna tradition, men and women are scheduled to use the facilities on alternative days. If modesty is an issue for you, you may cloak yourself entirely in towels, which are supplied free of charge by the sauna attendants, for the entire experience -- except, of course, for the sea splash.

For more information about the Finnish Sauna Society visit its Website at www.sauna.fi or visit the Website of Finnish Tourist Board at www.finland.tourism.com.


Copyright 2010 Jennifer Merin
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